✦ ✧

₊⊹ cheat sheet

BKO lash lift rods ✦

eye shapes & rod selection cheat sheet. tap any eye shape to see which rods to skip and which ones are good options.

get the PDF ↓

₊⊹ start here

i don't pick a rod for my clients. i cross rods off until there are only a few left, and whatever's left is her menu.

  1. 1
    take 2 photos before you touch her lashes. one from the front, one from the side. eyes open, relaxed, looking straight ahead.
  2. 2
    read the side photo. how much of her lash root does the eyelid cover? does her brow bone protrude? then draw her baseline: a straight line up from the lash root. behind her brow = size up. in front = no need.
  3. 3
    read the front photo. crease size, outlier lashes, how visible her waterline is, and how her lashes grow across the lash line.
  4. 4
    find her eye shape below. skip anything marked ✕ don't use. pick from ✓ good options based on the look she wants.
✦ fits more than one? most eyes do. skip every rod marked ✕ don't use on any of them, then pick from what's left.
C curl family (natural): C Curl · U Curl · CU Curl · Raindrop
L curl family (lifted): LC Curl · L Curl · M Curl · V Curl
brow bone: low = sits close to the crease / protrudes · high = sits higher, more space
trifecta: must have all 3: low/protruding brow bone + small crease + super long lashes
₊⊹ natural

C curl family

natural, rounded results

StandardC Curl · U Curl · CU Curl · Raindrop
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Low / High
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
C CurlU CurlCU CurlRaindropSize XS–XL based on lash length

Most flexible category. Choose the rod based on her desired finish and lash length.

Monolidno creaseC Curl · U Curl
crease: Nonebrow bone: Low / High
✕ don't useU Curl if the eyelid presses down on the lashes (they may stick forward instead of lifting)
✓ good options
C CurlU CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

Even long lashes may only lift in the area not covered by the lid. Set expectations before the service.

Monolidsmall creaseRaindrop · CU Curl
crease: Smallbrow bone: Low / High
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
RaindropCU CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

Raindrop is ideal for a partially concealed inner double eyelid. It sits between a tight and a thick C curl in profile.

Deep-set eyesCU Curl · C Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Any
✕ don't useL Curl · V Curl
✓ good options
CU CurlC CurlSize up as needed

CU Curl thickness creates clearance between the lash and eyelid. Check her side photo: if the baseline lands behind her brow, size up.

Thick / heavy eyelidsCU Curl · Raindrop
crease: Anybrow bone: Any
✕ don't useL Curl, unless her lashes are long enough to clear the lid
✓ good options
CU CurlRaindropSize up 1–2

CU Curl curves with the eyelid shape. Always size up based on how far the eyelid extends past the lash line.

Trifectamild caseCU Curl · C Curl · Raindrop
crease: Smallbrow bone: Low / protruding
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
CU CurlC CurlRaindropSize up

Mild = protruding brow bone + small crease, but lashes aren't super long. Sub a lip wand tip behind the rod where the eyelid fold is heavy to create extra space.

Trifectasevere caseCU Curl · Raindrop
crease: Small / barely visiblebrow bone: Low / protruding
✕ don't useL Curl · V Curl · U Curl
✓ good options
CU CurlRaindropSize up significantly

Severe = protruding brow bone + barely visible crease + extremely long lashes. Sub a lip wand tip behind the rod where the eyelid fold is heaviest.

Visible mucous membraneapplies to both familiesRaindrop · CU Curl
crease: Anybrow bone: Any
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
RaindropCU CurlAlways size up 1+

The curl looks tighter post-lift and the membrane becomes more visible. Always disclose before the service. If she wants to minimize membrane visibility, extensions may be a better recommendation.

₊⊹ lifted

L curl family

lifted, more defined results

StandardLC Curl · L Curl · V Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Low / High
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
LC CurlL CurlV CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

Choose based on desired finish: LC Curl for a standard lift, V Curl for a tight defined base, L Curl for a softer rounded lift.

Monolidwith proper techniqueL Curl · LC Curl
crease: None / Smallbrow bone: Low / High
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
L CurlLC CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

L Curl extends forward before curling, so it suits covered eyes. Explain before the service that the result will look more defined and noticeable.

Protruding eyesbrow sits lowLC Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Low
✕ don't useV Curl (low-sitting brow bone)
✓ good options
LC CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL
Protruding eyesbrow sits higherLC Curl · V Curl · L Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: High
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
LC CurlV CurlL CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

A high brow bone creates more space, so more rods stay on her menu. V Curl's tight base works well with a protruding eye shape.

Double eyelidpartial inner corner coverageLC Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Any
✕ don't useLC Curl if her mucous membrane is upturned (the curl may flip and touch the eyelid)
✓ good options
LC CurlUse in reverse

Use LC Curl in reverse when inner corner lashes are longer than the outer corner, or the inner corner lid is partially concealed.

Weak eye opening strengthtired / droopy-looking lidsL Curl · LC Curl
crease: S / M / Lbrow bone: Any
✓ good optionsno rods ruled out here. pick based on the look she wants + her lash length
L CurlLC CurlShort: XS–M · Med-long: M–XL

L Curl's softer rounded lift works well for monolids, heavy eyelids, and eyes that look tired or lack opening strength.

₊⊹ download

take this cheat sheet with you

download the printable PDF. save it to your phone, print it for your lash station, or pull it up mid-consult when you're stuck between two rods.

  • ✦ every eye shape: which rods to skip + which ones work
  • ✦ the 2-photo method + how to draw her baseline
  • ✦ 3 pages, works on any phone
download the PDF ✦