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every korean lash lift works the same basic way: step 1 breaks apart the disulfide bonds holding your client's lashes in their natural shape, so the hair can be reshaped around the rod. step 2 then reforms those bonds in the new, curled position — locking the shape in place. the difference between ZOOM, FLEX, and STANDARD comes down to which reducing agent step 1 uses to break those bonds, and how fast it can do it.
ZOOM's step 1 is built on ammonium thioglycolate, the salt form of thioglycolic acid and the most widely used reducing agent in professional perming. it breaks disulfide bonds quickly and reliably, which is why ZOOM processes fastest of the three (8–10 min). we reformulated it with a thicker base consistency, so it holds onto the lash without a separate viscosity powder.
FLEX uses cysteamine in its free-base form — a smaller, gentler reducing molecule than thioglycolate. the tradeoff is that pure (free-base) cysteamine is inherently unstable on its own, so our manufacturers incorporate skincare-like ingredients into the formula specifically to help keep the molecule controlled and stable. that's where FLEX's "skincare-like" feel actually comes from — it's a stabilizing necessity as much as it is a gentleness benefit.
STANDARD uses the same active ingredient as FLEX — cysteamine — but in its hydrochloride (HCl) salt form. in this form, the molecule needs to shift out of its protonated state before it can start reducing disulfide bonds, which is what makes STANDARD's processing time longer and steadier (10–15 min). that slower activation curve is exactly what gives you more visual control over how far the curl develops.
(the HCl salt form is inherently more stable than free-base cysteamine, which is part of why STANDARD doesn't need the same stabilizing ingredients FLEX does.)
once the lashes are set on the rod, step 2 re-oxidizes those broken bonds back into disulfide bonds in their new shape. all three bko formulas use hydrogen peroxide as that oxidizer, rather than sodium bromate (a common alternative in traditional perm neutralizers). the chemistry is the same regardless of which step 1 you chose — ZOOM, FLEX, and STANDARD all finish with the same step 2 reaction.
still not sure which step 1 is right for your client? take the quiz below — it takes less than a minute, and no email required.
Overall rating: 5.0 / 5 from 7 reviews.
first time using bko products & i am in LOVE! i wasn’t expecting the solution to be so thick and so helpful when trying to perm thick lashes! as you can see, my client has really thick lashes and i’ve always had to use viscosity thickener, taking time off my clock for each eye but it’s been so satisfying having a smooth routine & a speedy product to help me master my lifts. THANKYOU BKO <33
I absolutely love the ZOOM system! One of the first things I noticed was that it doesn’t have that strong smell that some lash lift solutions have, which makes the experience so much nicer for both me and my clients. I also LOVE that the processing instructions are printed directly on each sachet. It’s such a small detail, but as a working artist, it makes the system so convenient and easy to use without having to stop and look up instructions during a service. The system has been easy to work with, gives me beautiful, consistent results, and has quickly become one of my favorites for Korean lash lifts. Definitely a product I’m happy to keep in my backbar!
I love ittttt, and the smell not crazy like other brand I was used
This was my first time using ZOOM on a client, and I’m seriously impressed! My client has naturally straight, stubborn lashes that can be difficult to lift, but ZOOM worked so quickly and gave us a beautiful lift while still maintaining the integrity and health of her natural lashes. The formulation was easy to work with, effective, and delivered exactly what I was looking for without overprocessing. I absolutely love the results and can’t wait to use it on more clients. Definitely a new favorite!
We love using Zoom, it works fast and gives us amazing results. definitely repurchasing Zoom. Couldn't live without it.
Vicki is such a great instructor. She truly cares about her students and her products. I purchased her KLL course and the products are great!! I was scared to use TGA but once you understand how it works and you put everything together the results are to die for! This is a KLL I did + extensions.
I’ve done one lift with your product and so far it’s very spot on and consistent
